At State of Change, we are crafting a world of captivating scents, where every fragrance tells a story of beauty and embraces the moment. We have created fragrances that not only delight the senses but also nurture your well-being. We know that 'is this natural' is one of the most common conversations in fragrance and we think it is important to address the lack of information on the topic. For many of you, Naturals, are often the reason you go 'fragrance-free' as they are generally the cause for reaction with anyone who has sensitivities or allergies.
TLDR: Essential oils are the 'naturals' you are often referring to in fragrance, they are beautiful and boast a diverse array of terpenes. From the citrusy zest of limonene to the soothing embrace of linalool, these natural compounds weave enchanting scents into many fragrance creations. Nature's palette is rich and varied but is also influenced by factors like plant health and growth conditions, which is where the challenges begin. This diversity makes consistency a challenge and specifically leaves each batch of a raw ingredient with varying levels of allergens. Essential oils are also sensitive to oxidation and can change color, scent, and stability in different conditions.
We approach our fragrance development process with a view of Transparency. We embrace proven-safe synthetic ingredients which we consider the unsung heroes of the fragrance world. Mimicking nature's wonders, these compounds offer stability and longevity without compromising on scent and most importantly are proven safe.
Each fragrance is a testament to our dedication to quality and the well-being of our customers. Crafting allergen-free fragrances requires skill and dedication. Our team navigates the fragrant landscape with precision to create scents that captivate the senses while remaining safe for sensitive skin. At State of Change, we believe that beauty should never come at the expense of safety. We are proud of the hard work and time we spent to build a range of allergen-free fragrances that indulge the senses without triggering sensitivities.
]]>So, here's the lowdown on MoCRA - the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act that shook up the beauty game in 2022. This legislation is like a breath of fresh air for the cosmetic industry, including us, a solid fragrance brand all about laying our cards on the table.
MoCRA in a Nutshell: Picture this – MoCRA is like a massive update for the rules that govern cosmetics, and trust us, they needed a refresh after collecting dust for over 80 years. It's all about safety, innovation, and making sure you feel good about the products you use.
Happening Now: Since MoCRA became a hot topic in December 2022, we've been asked by many beauty vets, who are concerned on the impact to their business, how we can help on the fragrance piece of the puzzle. Well, as an Ingredient Transparent brand with a core focus on sustainability, clearly we can help. Note to founders who need help: Lucent Labs
Our Takeaway: MoCRA might sound like a mouthful, but for us, it's an opportunity to prove we've got nothing to hide. As a brand with science and validation at it's core, focused on transparent ingredients that are safe for you and the planet, we're embracing the shake-up, doubling down on transparency, and doing what we can to shift the industry in our direction. Stay tuned for a scented revolution, folks! 🌿🌟
]]>And to make this even easier for you, in case you don't know what plukenetia volubilis seed oil is, we are here to help. State of Change has partnered with ClearForMe to make it easy to learn more about each product, with Clickable Ingredients. Check it out using the steps below!
How to Learn More about State of Change Ingredients
We have spent years validating our formulations and building a better supply chain in fragrance. We want to show our work and let you decide which products are a fit for you.
If you want a little more information, here's an example: plukenetia volubilis seed oil
When you click, you will see, the definition along with the purpose in our formula and the EWG Score (see below example)
Definition: Extracted from Inca peanut, used as an emollient (retains moisture), as a skin protectant, and as a humectant (prevents moisture loss).
State of Change Purpose: humectant, skin conditioning
EWG Score: 1
*What is an EWG Score?
The Environmental Working Group (EWG) assigns a hazard score to common fragrance and cosmetic ingredients based on known and suspected hazards, skin absorbency. The hazards are divided into 17 categories including, cancer, reproductive/developmental toxicity, allergies, persistence/bioaccumulation, etc. The lower the score, the better. A score of 1 or 2 indicates a low hazard level.
Ingredients with Purpose
Our goal is not to overcomplicate fragrance; our goal is to provide transparency and move away from the antiquated trade secrets and secrecy of the large fragrance houses. Understanding the purpose of each ingredient gives you insight into why we chose to put it in a product. ClearForMe lists all purposes for an ingredient, but based on formula type and quantity only certain purposes may be relevant. Let’s take a look at a couple examples of ClearForMe definitions and the purpose for the ingredient in State of Change products.
To us, ingredient transparency is not a trend, it’s a commitment to you, our customers, to provide information about what goes on your body. When you know what is in products you can make the best decisions for yourself.
Transparency > Clean
]]>Alcohol in Perfumes
Alcohol serves as a solvent in perfumes, helping to dissolve and disperse the aromatic components of the fragrance. It acts as a carrier, ensuring that the fragrance oils are evenly distributed and remain stable within the perfume formulation. Additionally, alcohol acts as a diluent, reducing the intensity of the concentrated fragrance oils to create a wearable and balanced scent.
Alcohol evaporates quickly upon application. This evaporation process releases the initial burst of fragrance. The alcohol helps disperse the volatile aromatic compounds into the air, creating the initial impression and allowing the fragrance to project and be noticeable to others.
Alcohol acts as a preservative in perfumes, inhibiting the growth of bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms that may compromise the fragrance's integrity. It helps maintain the stability and quality of the perfume over time, preventing spoilage and ensuring a longer shelf life.
Alcohol-Free Perfumes
Alcohol-free options cater to those with specific preferences or sensitivities, providing a different sensory experience and alternative application methods.
Solid Perfumes - Solid perfumes are composed of a blend of aromatic compounds and carrier waxes or oils. They are applied directly to the skin using fingertips or a small brush, allowing for a more intimate and controlled application. Solid perfumes tend to have a longer-lasting scent due to the slow release of fragrance from the waxes and oils. All State of Change perfumes are alcohol-free solid perfumes!
Water-Based Alternatives - Instead of alcohol, these perfumes use water as the main solvent. Water-based perfumes can have a lighter and more refreshing feel on the skin, making them ideal for those who prefer a subtler scent experience.
Oil-Based Formulations - Alcohol-free perfumes often utilize carrier oils, such as jojoba oil or fractionated coconut oil, as a base. These oils serve as an alternative to alcohol, providing a medium for the fragrance oils to be suspended and released on the skin. Oil-based perfumes have a richer, more moisturizing texture and tend to have a closer, longer-lasting scent that stays in proximity to the wearer. Application of an oil-based liquid perfume can be less pleasant, and more greasy, than a solid fragrance.]]>Perfumes are composed of essential oils, aroma compounds, and a solvent (usually alcohol) that helps disperse the fragrance. The concentration of these aromatic components varies from one type of perfume to another and is indicated by name.
Parfum
Parfum, also known as extrait de parfum, has the highest fragrance concentration, anywhere from 15-40%, but usually in the 20-30% range. Parfums with their high dosage of aromatic compounds have long lasting scents, around 8-10 hours or more. Parfum also commands the highest price of all fragrance types, but you’re not paying for as much alcohol compared to other liquid forms.
Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Typically, EDP contains between 15-20% perfume oil, with the remaining content being alcohol. This higher concentration of fragrance oils allows for a long-lasting scent on the skin. With EDP, you can expect the fragrance to linger for 6 to 8 hours or even longer, depending on the specific perfume and individual body chemistry.
Eau de Toilette (EDT)
On the other end of the fragrance spectrum, we have eau de toilette. EDT has a lower concentration of perfume oil, usually ranging from 5-15%. As a result, eau de toilette scents are generally lighter and fresher. They are ideal for everyday wear and tend to be more suitable for warmer climates or situations where a subtler fragrance is desired. EDT scents usually last for about 3 to 4 hours on the skin.
Eau de Cologne (EDC)
Eau de cologne has a much lower concentration of fragrance than the above types of perfume. EDC generally has a 2-4% percent concentration of fragrance and a high concentration of alcohol. It is cheaper than other types of fragrance, but the scent typically only lasts for up to two hours. Applications tend to be frequent and large EDC bottle sizes reflect this.
Eau Fraiche
Eau fraiche is similar to eau de cologne in that the scent will generally last for up to two hours. Eau fraiche has an even lower concentration of fragrance, normally only 1% to 3%. While eau fraiche has a low fragrance concentration, it does not contain a high amount of alcohol. Along with the fragrance, the remainder of eau fraiche is mostly water.
Factors to Consider When Choosing
Strength and Longevity - If you prefer a stronger and longer-lasting scent, an extrait de parfum or an eau de parfum is the way to go. A higher concentration ensures that the fragrance stays on your skin throughout the day. However, keep in mind that this also means the scent may be more intense.
Occasion and Season - Eau de toilette is often preferred for daytime wear or casual occasions due to its lighter and fresher nature. Eau de cologne may be preferable in warmer seasons when heavy scents can become overpowering. Eau de parfum, with its stronger presence, is generally more appropriate for evening events or special occasions.
Personal Preference - Fragrance experience is subjective and unique to each individual. It's important to sample and test various perfumes on your skin to see how they interact with your body chemistry and determine which concentration suits you best. Personal preference should always take precedence over general guidelines.
Make Your Choice
The choice between fragrance concentration comes down to personal preference, occasion, the desired strength and longevity of the fragrance, and availability. Eau de parfum and parfum offer more intense and longer-lasting scent, making them ideal for special events or those who enjoy a stronger olfactory experience. Eau de toilette and eau de cologne with their lighter composition, are perfect for everyday wear and warmer weather. Whichever concentration you choose, you’ll smell great.
]]>Liquid perfume, in its classic form, has been a staple in the fragrance industry for centuries. It consists of a mixture of essential oils, synthetic aroma compounds, solvents (usually alcohol), and sometimes water. The liquid form allows for easy application using spray bottles or dabbing with a dropper or rollerball. Here are some key features of liquid perfume:
Application: Liquid perfume offers versatility in application. You can spray it directly onto your skin, on clothes, on other fabrics, or simply in your room. The spray format enables easy control over the amount applied, allowing you to customize the intensity to your liking.
Projection: Due to its highly volatile composition, liquid perfume evaporates relatively quickly upon application. This evaporation process contributes to the fragrance's projection, allowing it to diffuse into the air and create a scented aura around you. Liquid perfumes generally have a stronger sillage, leaving a noticeable trail as you move.
Portability: Most liquid perfumes come in glass or plastic bottles that are not the best travelers. Bottles can be art on their own - intricate designs and pleasing to hold bottles are key features of some brands. However, liquid perfume can be tricky to transport, especially for air travel, as the risk of leaking or breakage is high. More and more brands are choosing refillable bottles, but many leave you with an unrecyclable, empty bottle in the end.
Solid perfume, also known as balm or wax-based perfume, has gained popularity in recent years as an alternative to traditional liquid fragrances. Instead of being in a liquid solvent, it is formulated with a blend of aromatic compounds and carrier waxes or oils, resulting in a semi-solid or solid consistency. Here are some notable characteristics of solid perfume:
Application: Solid perfume is usually presented in small, portable containers like compacts or pots. With solid perfume, you can apply the fragrance more precisely by using your fingers or a small brush to dab or swipe the balm onto pulse points. This tactile experience allows for a more intimate and controlled application.
Longevity: Solid perfumes tend to have a longer-lasting scent compared to their liquid counterparts. The waxes and oils used in their formulation help slow down the evaporation process, resulting in a fragrance that lingers on the skin for an extended period. The intimate nature of solid perfume application also contributes to a more subtle, close-to-the-skin scent experience.
Portability: Solid perfumes are extremely travel-friendly. The compact and sturdy packaging makes them an excellent option for those who are always on the go. Since they are not subject to liquid restrictions, solid perfumes can be easily carried in your handbag or pocket, allowing for discreet touch-ups anytime, anywhere. Solid packaging is more likely to be recyclable, like ours!
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Both solid perfume and liquid perfume offer unique experiences and advantages. Liquid perfume provides application versatility, strong projection, but has weak portability, while solid perfume offers precise application, longevity, and portability. The choice between the two ultimately comes down to personal preference, convenience, and the desired scent experience. Whichever form you choose, the world of fragrances awaits, ready to add a touch of luxury and personal expression to your everyday life.
]]>What is a vegan perfume?
Vegan perfumes are created without the use or any animal-derived or animal by-products. Non-vegan fragrance ingredients include things like castoreum (derived from beavers) and beeswax (bee by-product). The use of animal-derived products in perfume is rare today, but animal by-products are still commonly used in cosmetics.
What’s the difference between vegan and cruelty-free?
Animal testing, on ingredients or the final formulation of a product, has been banned in the European Union for almost two decades. However, animal testing has not yet been banned in North America. So, while cruelty-free claims may seem redundant to European consumers they are valid information for other consumers. Cruelty-free products do not undergo any animal testing.
One of the core principles of veganism is its commitment to animal welfare; therefore, vegan products are not tested on animals. If a product is cruelty-free it may not necessarily be vegan, but vegan products are always cruelty-free. We include both claims on our website to make sure the claims are clear.
Are There Environmental Benefits?
Vegan beauty also champions environmental sustainability. Animal agriculture, a significant contributor to deforestation, greenhouse gas emissions, and water pollution, is bypassed in the production of vegan cosmetics. The use of plant-based ingredients and synthetic alternatives reduces the ecological footprint associated with traditional animal-based beauty products.
Is Performance Compromised by Using Vegan Alternatives?
Not at all. Vegan ingredients are constantly being researched and improved, debunking the misconception that vegan alternatives compromise on performance. With advancements in technology and innovative formulations, a wide range of natural and synthetic alternatives to non-vegan ingredients are available. Choosing vegan products does not mean you are compromising on quality; it means you are a compassionate and conscious consumer.
]]>We are too.
Only packing carry-on because you are an efficient traveler?
Of course.
Worried about how you are going to fit your whole beauty routine in that tiny liquids, aerosols, and gels bag?
We’ve got your solution.
As many 100 mL or less containers as you can fit into a 1 L is not a lot of containers. Your personal care essentials for a long weekend trip probably include at least 10 liquid items (cleanser, shampoo, conditioner, moisturizer, toothpaste, perfume, sunscreen, foundation, concealer, lip-gloss …). You might not think it is possible to bring every type of product you want in your carry-on. It is if you change the state of your products.
Time to swap some of your liquid beauty products for solid ones. A lot of liquid products are simply large volumes of water (shampoo) or alcohol (perfume) with small volumes of the ingredients that truly matter. Swapping your liquid shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste, and perfume for solid versions will save you space in your liquids bag for those liquids you cannot do without. The pressure changes that occur during your flight will not cause half of your solid to ooze out of its package when you open it at your destination. Solid beauty products cannot spill or leak all over your clothes. And many solid products are better for the environment than their liquid counterparts. Solid products are key to being an efficient air traveler.
Start your solid beauty product collection today with one of our solid perfumes. Bon voyage!
]]>Allergens Generally
An allergen is any substance that causes an allergic immune-mediated response (see Part 1 for an explanation of this process). Most fragrance materials are haptens, which are small molecules that become allergens after attaching to a carrier such as a protein. Haptens can further be categorized as prehaptens or posthaptens, but this difference is not always clear, and both elicit an immune response.
Some fragrance allergens, that typically are also carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic substances (CMRs), are banned by regulatory bodies such as the European Commission or Heath Canada within their respective jurisdictions. Other allergens have voluntary, but widely adhered to, limits suggested by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). But most allergens go unnoticed in products by consumers because they are covered by the broad term “parfum” in ingredient lists and most consumers do not develop allergies to the substances.
The 26 EU Fragrance Allergens
In the EU, in accordance with Regulation No. 1223/2209, perfume aromatic compositions and their raw materials can be referred to as “parfum” in cosmetic ingredient lists, except for 26 fragrance allergens that are subject to individual labelling conditions such as benzyl salicylate and linalool. These allergens must be identified in the ingredient list if their concentration is above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products. This enables consumers to identify some of the most common allergens in their products.
Health Canada has recently proposed regulation to require fragrance allergens be disclosed on product labels, similar to the regulations in the EU.
Coming Soon to a Label Near You?
Based on a 2011 opinion from The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) the European Commission has proposed expanding the list of allergens required to be identified from 26 to 82. A full list of the proposed materials can be found here. An additional 47 substances have limited testing data but are likely allergens. As testing expands will we see even more ingredients called out on product labels?
Concerns about how increased ingredient identification would impact packaging have been raised. If every known or likely fragrance allergen had to be listed, ingredient lists may not fit on small product packages. Reducing packaging is another important goal of clean beauty and should not be sacrificed for ingredient transparency. E-labelling may be the solution the industry needs. QR or bar codes can be placed on packages to easily access websites with full ingredient lists, not just allergens. State of Change already uses this method. As highlighted by the European Commission’s Impact study on fragrance labelling on cosmetic products e-labelling requires certain technological considerations but can be an effective option for products with limited packaging area.
Increased transparency means easier decision making. Allergy patch tests are limited with respect to fragrance allergens. But, if scented products had a full ingredient list on packaging, or online, and you were experiencing allergic reactions to a group of products you could compare the ingredient lists where a common culprit or two may reveal itself and you can try avoiding those substances in the future. It is not a perfect solution, and companies should try to minimize use of known common allergens, but as consumers become accustomed to seeing fragrance ingredients on labels, they may begin to feel more comfortable choosing products that are the best for their bodies.
]]>Fragrance Sensitivities
Also called fragrance intolerances, these reactions do not involve an immune response and are more common than fragrance allergies. Individuals with fragrance sensitivities may experience discomfort due to an exposure but do not have an immune-mediated allergic response. Many sensitivities are psychological based reactions linked to anxiety about unknown scents and loss of control. Sensitivity symptoms include sneezing, coughing, headaches, nausea, dizziness, irritation, discomfort, or a sense of being overwhelmed.
Understanding more about fragrance ingredients may help reduce symptoms. Knowing what materials create the scents around you may reduce your anxiety about them. Transparent fragrance labeling makes it easier for consumers to identify and avoid materials they believe cause them irritation. Even without transparent labeling you can keep track of scents that irritate you and stay away from those categories. If strawberry smells always cause irritation, avoid strawberry scented products.
Fragrance Allergies
A true allergy is an immune-mediated response to an allergen and occurs via a three-step process.
Variability in response to different allergens in different people is high. Some allergens, poison ivy for example, will trigger an allergic response in everyone. For other allergens some people may show higher or lower resistance. Degree of exposure is a factor, the more exposure you have to an allergen the more likely you are to develop an allergy. So, exposure to small amounts of an allergen may never trigger an allergy in most people.
Allergy Prevention
Allergy prevention is possible in two ways. First, primary prevention aims to avoid induction (sensitization) occurring. Next, secondary prevention aims to avoid repeat elicitation. Primary prevention is most effective at the industry level by having companies omit known, common sensitizers from their products. Secondary prevention is effective at a personal level by having people with fragrance allergies choose products without the materials they’re allergic to reduce or eliminate elicitation reactions. Transparent labeling is a key factor for making secondary prevention possible.
Make Scents a Choice
Reduce your exposure to irritants and make scented products a conscious choice by choosing only to use scented products with scents you want to smell like and fragrance-free products elsewhere. This can reduce the cumulative effect of using multiple scented products. Don’t let your perfume be muffled by body lotion or even primer. Choose fragrance-free or unscented moisturizers and make-up. Use perfume and fragrance that has a transparent ingredient listing so you can make accurate assessments of your reaction.
Stay tuned for Part 2 where we investigate individual fragrance allergens…
]]>First, let’s explore the purpose of fragrance and cosmetic ingredient lists. They provide transparency about the components of a product, help individuals with specific preferences or sensitivities make informed choices, and ensure regulatory compliance. Understanding these lists is important for assessing product safety, efficacy, and suitability for individual needs. In theory, labels give you the power to choose products with, or without, specific ingredients.
What do the lists generally contain?
Like food labels, cosmetic labels list ingredients in descending order of concentration. The ingredient with the highest concentration appears first, followed by others in decreasing amounts. This helps consumers understand the relative quantity of ingredients. However, some ingredients like colourants may be listed separately at the end of the list for regulatory purposes.
A key component to transparent labels is uniform naming conventions. The International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) system is a globally recognized naming system for cosmetic ingredients. It standardizes ingredient names to promote consistency and facilitate international communication. Cosmetic ingredient lists use INCI names to identify the components and to ensure clarity and consistency across products.
What don’t the lists generally contain?
A full list of fragrance ingredients. Parfum, or fragrance in the US, is the INCI name used to cover all fragrance ingredients that have been added to produce or mask an odour. Voila – a list of 30 ingredients can be whittled down to just one. Parfum may be either inserted at the end of the list of ingredients or at the appropriate point in descending order of predominance. This naming convention is in place because fragrance formulas are generally considered valuable trade secrets and using a catch-all term for ingredients helps protect those secrets. The full list of ingredients may be undisclosed, and this can be frustrating to consumers who want to know more about the products they use.
Certain fragrance ingredients are known to cause allergies or sensitivities in some individuals. Currently, the EU requires 26 such ingredients be disclosed on labels if used above certain thresholds. We’ll talk A LOT more about fragrance allergens soon!
Ingredient lists provide valuable information about the contents of a product and INCI names have been developed to facilitate international communication and standardization. However, fragrance ingredients can still be hidden behind a blanket term. Sure, companies can choose to indicate each fragrance ingredient individually, and some do, but it is not the industry standard. In the name of transparency, we want to help shift the industry in a positive direction - remove the sense of fear that comes from the word 'fragrance' and push more companies to show their full ingredient lists.
]]>Fragrance is a common term used in the cosmetics industry to describe a mixture of chemicals that create a certain scent in a product. "Fragrance" can also be used as a catch-all for a wide range of potentially harmful ingredients, including allergens, hormone and endocrine disruptors and other potential long term health concerns.
For decades, fragrance labeling laws have protected trade secrets, which made it difficult for consumers to know the specific ingredients used in a product's fragrance. However, with modern science allowing for the reverse engineering of formulas, it is time for the future of the fragrance development - transparent fragrance formulas.
Transparency in fragrance labeling is crucial for several reasons. First and foremost, it allows consumers to make informed choices about the products they use. When consumers have access to information about a product's fragrance ingredients, they can choose products that are safer and healthier for themselves and their families.
Additionally, transparency promotes accountability across the supply chain. When manufacturers are transparent about their fragrance ingredients, they are more likely to use safer ingredients in their products, knowing that consumers can see what they are using. This, in turn, promotes greater responsibility among manufacturers and suppliers, as they are held accountable for the ingredients they use.
A 2018 survey conducted by the Environmental Working Group found that nearly half of the tested fragrances contained at least one chemical that was identified as a potential hormone disruptor. Another study conducted by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found that many fragrances contained toxic chemicals that were not listed on the product label.
We want to lead the charge in fragrance disclosure and pave a future focused on transparency and accountability. Consumers have the right to know what is in the products they use, and transparency in fragrance labeling is the way of the future.